This weekend: south side CTA vegan ramblings; black metal wardrobe agonies
Sometimes your plans fall through and you let your stop go by. Then you have to decide when to get off, or they make you get off at the end. After volunteering Saturday, I stay seated as the doors close on the blue line Grand station (which connects to the Halsted bus, which connects to my house). Jackson feels right. I switch to red at Jackson. To switch to red at Jackson you walk through a tile tunnel. The buskers’ music changes from steel drums to barky hip hop. I ride red south. Boy, the train does crawl through those miles of slow zones. (This line’ll go out of service for months next year so that CTA can patch up these zones. Shuttles will run south siders north to work, shop. Nobody’s entirely happy about this.) I almost get off at 69th and 87th, because they’re two of the four red line stations I haven’t been in (Loyola and Jarvis the others). I almost get off at 79th to eat vegan soul food at Soul Vegetarian East. But no stop feels right until 95th, the last one, from which I know the 95W bus can take me to Sistah’s Vegan, since when else do I have the chance to get barbecue seitan in the homely far southwest-side neighborhood of Beverly? The whole evening, which seemed lost after my plans fell through, takes shape.
Sistah’s has no bathroom. They serve everything in styrofoam and with plastic utensils. You have to interrupt a high-school-aged kid’s homework to place an order. And the first time I went here, they brought my entree first, my appetizer second, and my drink about fifteen minutes later. Masochistic restaurant-goer that I am, I love it. This time I skip the special ($1 tacos) and go for that seitan, with sides of chili, salad, greens, potato salad, and corn on the cob. A guy steps in and waits for his “fish wish” sandwich. He tells me he just turned 41 and has been vegan for ten years. Why? Didn’t like the way meat made his body feel. I must go to untrendy veg-friendly restaurants at strange times, or random veg-friendly restaurants must not do too well in Chicago, because I end up in this conversation a lot: me and one middle-aged dude, the only ones in the place, talking about why we don’t eat animal products. We fall into this topic so naturally. We’re almost eager for it. An old Korean man at The Loving Hut once lectured me for 45 minutes on the spiritual superiority of the diet, for example. He said that I must be very close to Enlightenment if I started eating this way so young.
This is a very intimate conversation, in a way, because the decision to quit dairy, meat, honey, eggs, and everything else is so big, and it affects us several times a day every day. But after revealing the cosmic guilts and the spiritual underpinnings that drive us into places like Sistah’s, we never ask each other about family or women or books, or anything else of similar weight. We talk about the weather if the weather’s worth talking about, or we shut up, same as any two people sharing a bus seat. Fish wish is the only other customer the whole time I’m there. When I leave, I throw away my heap of styrofoam and plastic. The family’s all the in the kitchen. I could carry the register home.
I don’t need money, though. I step back onto the street to an early dusk. A proper soul food joint next door radiates the thick sauce of wings. A teenage couple lingers outside for a whiff. “Who has money for wing tips?” they ask themselves and keep walking. I’m at 9500S. I’m at 2200W. Ashland Ave. is 1600W. The Ashland bus starts and ends at 9500S. I get to see the southern half of the Ashland bus! An hour-long straight-as-arrow bus ride past mostly unnamed streets (80th… 81st… 82nd…) might not sound exclamation-point-worthy, but I’m a person who rode the El for almost 16 hours solid, to see what could be seen. The prospect of a long Ashland bus ride through new parts of the Gresham, Englewood, and Back of the Yards neighborhoods lights me up. I wish I could tell you something I see changes the way I think about the city. Mostly I make uncomfortable eye contact as I try to look past the heads of two body shop workers who block my view of the street. A family holds a cookout on the Garfield Blvd. median. I wonder which of the dozens of shabby storefront churches we pass actually hold a congregation Sundays and Wednesdays. Prince of Peace, Saint Mark, Mount Helm, Anointed by God—any one of these could already be abandoned.
Sunday I skip the storefronts and fill in another blank stretch on my map of the city. I take the Halsted bus south to 63rd. Check it out if you need a few dusty, forgotten strip malls. From there I take the 63rd St. bus east to Woodlawn Ave. (in the neighborhood of Woodlawn), to take in the Robust Coffee Lounge. It’s closer to the U of C than the 53rd and even the 55th St. Starbucks and cafes, always crammed with students, but I see far less textbooks and crimson at Robust. It’s better than any Hyde Park coffee shop, but the wrong direction from campus for some. Over a watery Americano I agonize over what shirt I will wear three weeks from now to a black metal festival. I’m no aficionado, but I know that your stock Darkthrone/Burzum/Emperor shirts are so canonical they’re invisible. Reppin’ one of those bands at this fest would be like showing for the Pritchard Park drum circle in a Led Zeppelin shirt. Safe bets say nothing about you.
But when I look up shirts for the (few) other BM bands on my computer, I find a lot of obscure acts don’t sell merch. Too misanthropic for that. But I find an eBay bootlegger who sells unofficial shirts of the primitive Novato, California black metal band Bone Awl. I love them because 1) their songs all pretty much sound the same and avoid all possible syncopation, 2) their stage names are “He Who Gnashes Teeth” and “He Who Crushes Teeth,” and 3) they have an EP about bog bodies. This bootleg T has no pentagrams or inverted crosses, so I could wear it to a work function. And it’s beige instead of black, so I won’t look like everyone else in the pit. Nonetheless it takes me three hours to decide to buy this shirt. I give in only because the auction will end in 20 minutes. In conclusion, who wants to go to the black metal festival with me?